Vintage pattern vs tension and modern yarn.

 As a crochet designer I vary rarely see or use anyone else's patterns mostly just to keep my mind clear and untainted from other designs and focus on my own. 

I recently found a vintage amigurumi pattern that looked (at first glance) similar to one of the base patterns I have for a group of my patterns. 

I figured I would look over the pattern just to be sure the differences were more than just visual. YES, they were!

First thing I noticed was the largest stitch number in the rounds of the body was 36, wow that is way smaller than the picture presents it to be.

Second thing I noticed was that the approx. finished size at 39 rnds was listed at 8 inches tall with a G (4.00mm) hook. I am thinking how in the world is that possible?? 

Almost all of my patterns are done with a G hook so I am very familiar with the finished sizes I make with it, which is usually around 6 inches. The patterns of mine that I am referencing to go up to 47 rnds and 48 sts around. Now the stitches around don't really matter in this scenario but I am letting you know anyway. 

By now you are thinking it has to be the yarn. The pattern says it used Red Heart Super Saver yarns, same as me. Ahh but maybe a bit of the difference has to do with the fact that yarns in the 90's weren't exactly the same as they are now, they were tougher, thicker and coarser. So I am fine with giving it a little extra height to compensate for the difference, maybe an inch at the most.

Another thing to note is that the gauge size for the vintage pattern was 4 sts x 4 rnds = one inch. Most people hardly pay any attention to gauge when it comes to amigurumi because most of the time it is only important when using the appropriate size safety eyes. My patterns are typically 5 sts x 5 rnds = one inch. I would have to go up to a H or even an I sized hook to get the 4 x 4 gauge it called for. I decided against it because I hate seeing stuffing through my stitches.

Now, I am fully aware that I crochet very tightly because I very seldom have a tester come out with the same size as myself with having to drop several hook sizes. With knowing this I added 3 extra rnds to their pattern to make it a one piece heady and body vs having to sew it together. Even with this change the results were interesting.

The conclusion ... 

Their G hook, red heart super saver medium weight yarn at 39 rnds = 8 inches. 

My G hook, modern red heart super saver medium weight yarn at 42 rnds = 5.25 inches!!

Just another example that 

1. yarns change over time and can skew the finished results.

2. even with the same material and hook size the results are going to be different because everyone has different tensions. 

I hope this helps when you get a vintage pattern and it isn't coming out exactly right, don't get frustrated too much, there are other factors at play here.

Floppy neck in Amigurumi

 So I am scrolling through a crochet group on Facebook and I see this post about how to fix a floppy neck. The responses at the time were nearly 30 but in my opinion only 3 were the best advice. Well that is not entirely true, some were good only if it is going to be displayed as art and not a toy for a child.

Some info to consider (as seen in the pic) the original post had a finished body with a already sewn on head, loose stitches, loose stuffing, one arm sewn on and the head was floppy. 

Here are some of the responses:

1) slide wooden dowels or twisted pipe cleaners inside to hold a frame
2) a dowel running from the chest through the neck INTO the head halfway up
3) Wood dowel.
4) put a wooden dowel 
5) Try taking a needle to rearrange the stuffing in her neck
6)use a needle and put a stitch on each side of the neck
7) Stuff neck and use mattress stitch
8) Crochet a tube to insert into the neck
9) the foam part of a hair roller would work
10) Try attaching the other arm and see if that doesn't straighten it out, maybe the one arm has

it off kilter
11) remove her head and reattach it
12) please don't use a wood dowel or wire if this is for a child remove her head then crochet a

sausage shape and stuff firmly, your sausage should be the same size as the neck hole then

about the same size as the head in length, push the sausage half into the body and sew it in place

then push the other half inside the head and sew to the neck. This is much safer and if you use the

same colour as your skin will hide any gaps as well as keep the head upright without ever getting

floppy. Over time stuffing does compact but by using this method the stuffing has no-where to go

so stays stiff
13) sew another row round for support
14) I read some time ago about using foam curlers and that's a perfect fix the next time I make a

doll or bear, etc.
15) When you sew the head on leave a space then start pushing stuffing in between the neck and

body then finish sewing
16) Stuffing and more stuffing. I make a lot of toys and you need to put an extreme amount. You

can also add a crochet ring inside the neck , plastic Tube, wood dowel etc but I don’t usually have

to unless it's a ginormous head
17) I stuff the body and then stick Qtips in the stuffing, leaving approx two inches of the Qtip

sticking up out of the stuffing. Continue crocheting the neck and head, stuffing as you go.
18) A ruffled collar
19) I have found that if I start from the feet up (or butt up) and continue to the head without it being

a separate piece that needs to be sewn on the head doesn't flop around as much.
20) I would also suggest that you go down a full size hook to make stitches tighter
21) Tighter or smaller stitches might make her more steady (and as a bonus, less stuffing showing

through!)
22) Put the other arm on. See if that fixes it. If not try pipe cleaners or popsicles stick in the center

of the stuffing in the neck
23) Work a chopstick down from top of her head, thru neck, into body, in center of stuffing.
24) use dowel rods most of the time. You can also attach the head one row further down. Or sc

crochet a strip long enough to wrap around the neck then sew into place
25) When doing Amigurumi or any dolls a good rule of thumb is to use a hook size 2 mm smaller

that the recommended size for that yarn. I also, when making dolls, crochet a tube that I insert,

smaller than the neck size and at least 2" up into the head and 2" into the body that I stuff very tight.

It keeps the head from wobbling.
26) I had this problem when I made some rabbits that had thin necks. Someone suggested

crocheting a tube that fit into the neck but also went into the head and body a bit.
27) More stitches could help stabilize the neck
28) Tack it down tighter with more stitches
29) Sew it on straight

Okay first of all, did you laugh? I sure did!

Some of these responses cracked me up, made me shake my head and worst of all made me say wtheck!

Dowels: if it is going to be an art piece then fine, by all means go ahead but PLEASE do not put a wooden dowel or any other hard object in the neck if it is going to be given to a child. The last thing you want is to be responsible for a child inuring themselves on your toy.

Stuffing: Rearranging the stuffing may work but not in the long run because over time and with use the stuffing will condense and you'll have a floppy head again.

Firm, solid stuffing is preferred but remember not to over stuff to the point of seeing your stuffing through the stitches.

Foam rollers: I have actually used this method before and it can work well depending on the roller you use (nothing with hard plastic parts, just foam) but again I wouldn't recommend it if it is a toy that will be given to a child to play with. If you don't have any rollers and need a quick fix, you might consider cutting a small piece of a foam pool noodle.

I am thinking that #17 must make super tiny necks for Q-tips to be used but again I don't recommend adding hard object unless it is going to be a art piece.

Okay #10, 18, 22, 29 cracked me up!

I can't say that the mattress stitch won't work but I have never used it.

Sometimes doing a resew can be just the trick, maybe it was sewn too loosely or some stitches were missed.

#13, 6... I don't know what they thinking or how they think that might work.

#19... True

#20, 21... Critiquing her work

#8, 12, 25 and 26... Thank you for giving what I believe to be the best advice. A crochet tube the same size or just a stitch or two smaller does the trick every time and there is not cause to worry about injury to a child.

~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~

So over all a 1/3 of the responses suggested putting a hard object in the neck! I hope those were art pieces and not toys for children.

Well, I know this piece was long but maybe it will help you in deciding how to fix a floppy neck.

Happy Crocheting!

What to know about tails...

 

Tails? What are they and how I use them.

No we wont be talking about doggy tails, even though they are super cute.

A tail in pattern language is the beginning yarn or the ending yarn.

How do I use it? In amigurumi there are several ways I use tails.

Beginning tail...

1) first and foremost I use it to knot the beginning tail secure so there is no way the circle will come loose.

2) When I make a magic circle, I typically have a beginning tail of 5 inches but depending on what I am making, I may choose to add extra length to it and use it as stuffing. Like say the fingers on the Christmas Thief or the tail on a monkey. Small things that are no bigger than a pencil benefit from just using the yarn tail as stuffing, rather than trying to stuff with fiber fil and having the stitches stretch and then having white stuffing show through. Yuck! Nobody wants to see that.

3) lets say I am making the bottom of a foot with chain stitches that are worked in the round, I know to leave a bit extra tail for sewing and stuffing. For me the ends tend to have a hole in them from having 4 stitches in one chain. This will drive me nuts, so I fix it with a few stitches with the beginning tail to close the gap a little. Then I lay the extra remaining tail over the chain line and tack it down with either stuffing or a drop of fabric glue. 

4) leaving an extra long beginning sewing tail. Typically used for sewing when a ending tail is not available, is in the wrong spot for where you need it or extra pieces are being added.

Ending tail...

1) most often than not the ending tail will be used for sewing the entire piece to another piece. Like sewing the opening or ending of a leg to a body.

2) it may also be used as a sewing tail for sewing gaps, in between pieces such as when putting two or more pieces together to make one piece like a hand.

3) I may use the ending tail to weave the last stitches closed  or just weave the tail through some stitches to secure it.

One thing I definitely don't do is cut the tail shorter than 2 inches unless absolutely necessary.

Hope this helps. Happy crocheting!